Southeast Asia Blogs by Jao Moragoat | | Emails from the Green Wanderer to friends and family across the globe, Singapore / Malaysia visa run, May 2002

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Transistion: Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:48:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Hello from Singapore...

Hello all,

At the moment, I am in my friends student dorm room near the eastern coast of this tiny island. The main city is towards the east and central. I arrived here around 5 pm yesterday evening at Changi International Airport-situated on the western coast of Singapore island. After phoning my friend Melky from the free phones inside the airport, I soon met up with him. We hopped on the transit line (MRT) to head into the city center (from Changi International Airport-about 25 km or so). Around Beach road and Bencoolen street, (apparently the budget/bagpackers areas right) which are in good location in Colonial/modern Singapore, we looked for some of these guesthouses/hostiles listed in my moon travel guidebook. Well, it turned out that almost all of the ones listed were either closed down or temporarily under renovation. So it beat my luck. After this, Melkey kindly invited me to stay (against his University rules) in his room at his hostile. I accepted and last night, slept on a mattress here in Boon Lay district (about another 25 km or so to the west of the city center).

Though somewhat overwhelming, the city is very impressive so far. As a 4 million + populated metropolis, it is damm clean and better yet, green. Grass and trees throughout. The transportation is very orderly and easy. The MRT (similar to BTS in Bangkok) is user friendly and reliable. I have not seen any traffic jams or many personal cars for that matter (Singapore has a tax which is 200% of the price of the car if you want to own a car here--so if the car is 30,000 $, you have to pay 90,000$--very extreme right?- but efficient, effective, and logical for such a small but populated conscious city/state/country island) So basically, only the rich and well-off live in houses (90% + of all Singaporeans live in high density apartments/condos/flats) and have their own transportation. The rest rely on the community/public resources. No apparent smog, in fact I was happy the puff ivory clouds and equator-blue skies all yesterday and this morning. In contrast to other international/cosmo cities, aside from a few of the internationally famous nightclubs and techs (which I have not yet experienced but soon to be), Singapore is a day city. Not much action at night. Public transportation and most places stop and close by 11:30 (and this was last night-Friday) Though I believe the nightclubs stay open until 3 am. But as far as getting home at 3 am, you would have to use a taxi which have a 200% surcharge after midnight. So from a urban planner's perspective, Singapore is ideal--standard of living high, clean, safe, efficient, etc. On the contrary, from a budget travelers perspective, gotta watch my capital closely, I'm not in good ol' Thailand anymore. Let you know more as it comes, take care all and later this week its Kuala Lumpur, yea,
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:09:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Singapore after hours (rated pg 18)

So the club scene so far:
After a day of sight seeing in/around cbd (central business district or downtown), Melkey and I entered one of Singapore's tallest high rises, Westin Stanford tower (Raffles City) hotel. (maybe 250 meters tall) On the 69th through 71st floor is the entertainment complex formally known as Equinox. (Asians and their innovative themes...) I wanted to get a bird's view of the city, and my only chance was to dine at one of the restaurants. (no observation level in this building) So we went to New Asia cafe on the 71st floor. The food--expensive but with its ambience and view, what can you expect. Sat for an hour sipping on Singapore's very own, Tiger beer (nothing distinct about it) and munching some rice/meat hard shell rap snack. Caught some of the sunset over Marina Bay, Singapore river, and CBD and then set off. Now on towards famous Orchard road early evening. Every weekend at civic plaza, a free music concert of Hongkong, Taiwan, and local stars is provided to the public (community over capitalism). However, the catch is the capitalists get there play anyway by advertising to the audience beforehand and after so its more like a harmonious compromise between capitalism and community. So after sampling some Indonesian food court food and listening to the lovely and beautiful Chinese pop star and Taiwanese rapping group. We rushed to the club to make it before 9:00. (That is happy hour, cheaper cover)

This particular club, Zeuk is one of the more popular ones in Singapore. Its actually 3 clubs connected. Zeuk, Phuture, and the internationally famous Velvet Underground. Zeuk is 18 +, Phuture is 21 +, and Velvet Underground is 23+. I spent most of the night of course in Zeuk which is the most happening anyway apparently (excluding Velvet-wouldn't know) but later in the night made it upstairs to Phuture without hassle. At around 9:00, no action, just a few friends or couples chatting and/or drinking at the few bars skattered. It is not a very large hall/room, but it makes up in its tech/lights/sound/and special effects. All modern to the fullest-green showering and wave lasers-twirling spotlights-black light illusions-everything-its a crazy acid trip w/o the acid. The before 9 cover charge of 12 singapore dollars (about 7 US) included two standard drinks. So I had a draft Tiger beer and a screwdriver.

Singapore is more like the states as far as the clubs. Its not drink till your drunk and not shy before you dance like many of Thailand's clubs. Anyhow, no real dancing from 9 to 10. By about 10:30 pm. I, my friend Melkey, and some other young US sailors that were there, the courageous ones, broke the ice and started to dance showing off, mimicking each other, and battling around their eclectic skills. By midnight the party was in full blast. The dance floor packed with ladies and all walks of life from Singapore and abroad. Talk about synergy.

Singapore's four main national races and languages are English, Chinese, Malay, and Indian (Tamil). So everywhere you go public, most notices or messages are in all 4 languages. And to the club topic, it was quite interesting to see Indians, Chinese, Malays, and westerners, and of course all the mixed bloods, all intermingled like so just enjoying the pumping house music, not stressed or connecting via political/racial conflict. And so today, just relaxing after a late night/morning. I think I am content with what I've seen so far and as much as I'd love to stay and could stay for a long time, I don't have the capital to support this nor the intent so I will move on probably Tuesday morning or so. And I'll keep you informed of anything new, take care
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:48:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Greetings from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Because of the unreliability of this school-boy, first person graphic game playing, infested cyber cafe, I have to rewrite this message because the last one was lost.

So I'm in Kuala Lumpur, the garden city of lights. Malaysia's capital, a modern metropolis of around 3 million. Pretty clean and beautiful like Singapore with many park, grass, and trees, but also with more cars, thus traffic and pollution. The skyscrapers here are damm impressive. Most popular these days--the Petrona twin towers. Currently, they hold the world title for tallest structural height at 454 meters high. They soar over the city in all their grand glory for Malaysia, symbolizing the jump into the modern world for this nation. Unfortunately, like most man-made capitalist structures, nothing public has been offered from them aside from a 10 minute tour/view from the sky bridge that links the towers some 40 stories up. The view is nice here. However, from over 280 meters up in the observation level of the KL tower (420 meters tall), for 15 Malaysian ringetts (about 4 usd $), the 360 degree view and audio tour of KL city is least worth an awe, as in mastercard's words, priceless. KL's many garden green hill parks scattered throughout. In the Eastern horizon, past the towering scrapers and city, the jungle cliffs and caves give a romantic ambience to the city. Somewhere 30 km out in the west horizon, there lies the ever mysterious Andaman sea.

Most unfortunately, ever since Monday in Singapore, I have been ill. Some sort of head cold/flu has overcome my body. I am able to function, i.e. breath, sleep, eat, walk, see, observe, but my senses have been minimal. Therefore I can not enjoy everything for what it truly is worth. At least I'll be able to look back at the many photo's I have taken. I arrived in KL, yesterday morning at 6:30 a.m. from an overnight Singapore sleeper train. I checked into a 20 ringett/night bagpacker's guesthouse (about 5-6 usd $), napped, and then set out to explore the city. One thing that both KL and Singapore have over other world cities is a great ethnic and diverse ethnic blend of cultures and religions. Most concentrated are former Chinese and Indian immigrants. (both cities have a significant China town and Little India). Along with multi-racial integration comes inter-racial mix in courtship and dining. So not only can you eat a unique meal here, you will see and meet beautiful mixes of people as well.

So the night life in KL? Well, I haven't the will and energy to really check it out at the moment. Though I did stop in for a beer last night at a disco club. For a Wednesday, it was expectedly empty. The tech and sound system was on par with the rest of the modern world (though I hear nothing touches Tokyo's scene), but nothing special. However, KL is different from cities as Bangkok, Singapore, and the states because it has no formal restrictions on closing. Where most places in those mentioned places have restrictions to close by 2 or 3 am, apparently, Kuala Lumpur goes all night to morning. But unless a wave of absolute healthiness and will comes over me soon, I don't plan to check it out. Besides, I don't have anyone here to share that with, which always makes it that much more worth it. And, soon I will return to Thailand to start a new phase/chapter. Until next news, later,

View Pictures from this trip: Singapore

View Pictures from this trip: Kuala Lumpur

END OF TRANSISTION

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